The Dent du Géant (It.: Dente del Gigante, “giant’s tooth”) (4,013 m) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in France and Italy.
The Dent du Géant remained unclimbed during the golden age of alpinism, and was a much-coveted peak in the 1870s, repelling many parties who attempted it mostly from the Rochefort ridge. In 1880 the strong team of Albert F. Mummery and Alexander Burgener tried to force a passage via the south-west face but were repelled by a band of slabs, causing Mummery to exclaim, ‘Absolutely inaccessible by fair means!’
The mountain has two summits, 88 feet (27 m) apart and separated by a small col (an ‘extremely awkward notch’ according to W. W. Graham):
- Pointe Sella (4,009 m), first ascent via the south-west face by Jean Joseph Maquignaz with son Baptiste Maquignaz and nephew, Daniel Maquignaz on 28 July 1882. Over a period of four days they placed iron stanchions and fixed ropes,[4] enabling the same party to climb Pointe Sella a second time on the following day with clients Alessandro Sella, Alfonso Sella, Corradino Sella and Gaudenzio Sella.
- Pointe Graham (4,013 m), first ascent by W. W. Graham with guides Auguste Cupelin and Alphonse Payot on 20 August 1882. They used the fixed ropes of “Sella’s staircase” to repeat the ascent of Pointe Sella, where Graham noted that one of the Maquignazes had carved the letter ‘M’ on a rock step. They then lowered themselves 12 metres (39 ft) into the col to climb this higher north-east peak
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